Borders and Breakdowns in Senegal

"A car is only trouble at a certain point." Ryan Gosling

On the way to Dakar

We passed warthogs, trees and water on the way to the border with Senegal. Leaving Mauritania was quite simple, but Senegal police wanted $10 each to stamp our passports. We waited them out and soon had our documents in order. The customs officer did not like me questioning him, which is fair, I don't like it either, but it is difficult to know what is a real charge, and what is made up on these borders. Eventually we got our car through, but our new traveling buddy, Fonzy, was not so lucky. As his car was older than 8 years, and he was not traveling with a carnet de passage, he needed to pay $250 to bring it in. He chose to leave the car at the border, and ride with us to Dakar, then meet a friend and head back to the car to drive it back to Holland.

First trees in about a month!

A short drive to Saint Louis on amazingly good roads. Green trees lined the sides. Sub saharan Africa seemed to start instantly. Saint Louis is built in three places, the mainland, an island, and a further out piece of the mainland that curves around to the sea. We drove across a long metal bridge to the island. Tall, crumbling colonial buildings painted yellow, orange and white greeted us. The pirogues, long brightly colored boats, lined the muddy waters. Hundreds of people walked the evening streets.

Pirogues in Saint Louis

Saint Louis

We found a cheap place to stay, then set our for our first beers in weeks. We drank to crossing the Sahara, to no more wind and sand, and reaching where many overlanders from Europe finish their trip and head home. We were just begining.

Our home in Saint Louis

The following day we made it 35km, and the alternator in our car seized up. A loud screeching sound, and the car turning off, brought us to a halt. We were in a village named Mpale. We found a mechanic. TJ and Chris took out the alternator, and the mechanic took it in a taxi to Saint Louis to pull the bearing.

Broken black Panda

Cows in Mpale

Sheep in Mpale

We ate Mafe, rice with peanut sauce while we waited. We found a Senegalese drum circle with women jumping and dancing enthusiastically and wearing very nice clothes. We could not figure out what it was for, maybe a pre-wedding party? We were welcomed in to watch and enjoy. Afterwards, we lai

d down on a mat with a family to rest. The mechanic returned with the alternator. We put it in and it started right up. We camped outside the town in a field, then made for Dakar in the morning.