Rock the Kasbah (Chafcheouen, Fez, Morocco) 7/15-17

"The world is on a bumpy journey to a new destination and the New Normal". Mohamed El-Erian

Boat People: 7/15
Arriving in the port of Tangiers, we were told to line up in certain areas of the boat depending on where your car was parked. As we could not understand the announcments on the intercom, we just sat on the deck till we were usured down to the bowels of the ship. Finding our Panda, we pushed and honked our way out of the ship and our wheels touched African soil for the first time.

Our first point of call in Africa

Port of Tangiers

Chris and TJ waiting to get off the boat

Moroccoan immigration was fast and friendly. We waited in the newly built port area for the others in the Dakar Odessy to come through. We were 5 cars. Our goal for the night was the small blue city of Chafcheouen. Roads were nice leaving the port as we climbed the hills by the sea. We dropped down along the coast, passing through seaside resort towns, gleaming white and full of both European and Moroccan holiday makers. The call to prayer echoed off the buildings from the tall, distinct rectangular minarets that mark nearly every mosque in the country. We learned that non-muslims are not allowed to enter mosques in Morocco, so we could only peak through the doors from time to time. Getting off the large highways, we took smaller roads through the countryside. The driving was very similar to that of Switzerland and Italy, with maybe just a little more chaos. People seemed to obey traffic signals, and we passed many police speed traps.

On the road to Chafcheouen

The square minarets of Morocco

As the sun was setting, we drove up the final hill to Chafcheouen, and passed by an old broken piece of what looked like a city wall. The only piece left was a blue door, with many people stopped. We stopped as well to take a look. A Moroccan biker explained that it was indeed the city wall, and was a famous landmark in the country. Meeting up with the rest of our group, we parked, and walked for the old Kasbah area (old portion of the city). The city was a refuge for jewish slaves hundreds of years ago, and was painted blue as a sign of immigrants, so we were told. The alleyways narrowed, little tourists shops popped up, walls became bright blue, and soon we found ourselves in a large square, a mosque in the center, and restaurants lining the outskirts. We chose a dinner spot, and had a meal of couscous and tagine. We drove up to a paid camping site and set up camp around 11pm where we collapsed, exhausted.

Kasbah in Chafcheouen

Chafcheouen

The blue streets of Chafcheouen

TJ by the old door to Chafcheouen

Chafcheouen camp site

Blue doors eveywhere

Morning in Chafcheouen

Morning walk in blue steets

City People: 7/16-17
In the morning we revisited the old city for some pictures, and then made for the old trading city of Fez. Along the way we visited the Roman ruins of Volubilis. The area was having a heat wave, and the temperature soared to 116 degrees. We all agreed it was the hottest day any of us had experienced. Our cars did great however. Walking around the ruins in the heat, it was difficult to take in the experience, but being on a hill, overlooking ancient Roman columns with fields of wheat in the background, was beautiful. The road down to Fez took us through small villages with goat herds and broken, potholed, roads. Finally reaching the main road, we made a final push into Fez for the night. We stayed in the Downtown Hostel, which one of our convoy members, Jennifer, booked online. We were met at the Blue Gate, a large doorway into the old Medina (city), and then we had to walk through the streets to the hotel, as no cars are allowed past the gates. Fez has the largest, and oldest Medina of any city in Morocco, and supposidly the world. The streets turned into tiny alleyways again, and even through our hotel was only on the other side of the wall from the Blue Gate, we had to make about 7 turns to arrive there from outside the city walls. From the top of the hotel, you could see the old city, square minarets jutting up through the skyline. As it was cooler on top, Chris and TJ took their sleeping mats and made their bed on the roof for the night, waking up to the call to prayer.

Sunset over Fez

Fez doors

The Blue Gate

So many things in jars!

In the morning, Chris, Jess, TJ and I had a group meeting. We decided to part ways with the Odyssey to Dakar group. We liked everyone in the group, but their pace was too fast for us, and we wanted to stay in Fez another night. We took some final pictures with them, and said our goodbyes, maybe to meet again on their way back up to Europe and our way south.

A final picture with the Odyssey to Dakar group

We spent the day wandering through the old Medina. Small streets gave way to more small streets. Vendors sold all types of tourist tat. We found some red fez hats and couldn't pass up the opportunity to buy a fez in Fez. We made our way down the hill to one of the local leather tanneries. We climbed a 5 story shop to view them. Below we could see many round tanks in various shades of brown, filled with animal hides. On the edges we could see workers unloading donkeys full of sheep and cow hides, waiting to be processed and dyed. The smell was horrible, and would come in waves. Interesting to see, but a challenge for even my stomach. The rest of the day was spent chatting with locals, looking at carpets, eating street food, and we even somehow found ourselves in a small school for a short time. We arrived back in our hotel tired from the long day out. We made a quick trip to the grocery store for camping supplies, then dinner, and sleep.

Medina in Fez

Leather tannery

Fez

Madressas in Fez

Medina Fez

Markets in Fez